“Time and tide wait for no (wo)man.”


Birthday morning sunrise in Bryce Canyon. 

“Long stretches of desolation abound, be sure to watch your fuel and know you can make it to the next known stop. Take snacks and lots of water.”(Sisters’ Ride guide book)

This was the sage advice given to us before embarking on today’s ride. We were heading to Ely, Nevada and starting the two-day journey that would take us on the infamous US Route 50 or as Life Magazine declared in 1986, “America’s Loneliest Road”. 

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/U.S._Route_50_in_Nevada

At this stage in our ride Zandra had become an expert in finding interesting alternate routes or at least an interesting landmark or quirky roadside attraction to break up the more monotonous miles. 

Alas, alternatives were limited on the long, hot ride through Utah to Ely (pronounced elee), just over the state line in Nevada. This was especially true as we needed to be  cognizant about finding sufficient fuel stops and water. 

Riding into Ely however was enough to break up 100’s of miles of monotony.  Quirky didn’t begin to describe this town. It really was like a scene out of a B-western from the 1940’s.  A casino on every corner and the strong scent of bygone days of grandeur.

We were booked into the Nevada Hotel and Gambling Hall with its 3 story high, buff, neon miner ready to defend us (or brain us) with his pick axe. 



The first thing we noticed when we went to check in was that Nevada has apparently not joined the international movement of protecting its workers and the public from second-hand smoke. The haze and smell coming from the gambling hall put many of our riders off completely. A few were lucky enough to move to another hotel around the corner. 

I’m not sure whether it was because I told the young woman at the desk that it was my birthday or because there was a minor screw-up with our reservation but it seems, after conferring with other riders, that Zandra and I lucked into the best room in the house. 5th floor, non-smoking and a giant four-poster bed that required a running jump to get on. I was delighted. 

After we settled in we went to check out the town. We found some of our folk in an old-school soda fountain and ice cream parlour that seemed far too wholesome for this town. 
Curiosity then led us to a very brief encounter in a restaurant called Racks – apparently a euphemism for game hunters stuffed ‘trophies’. Yeeeckkkk. A picture I will unfortunately not get out of my head anytime soon. 

Heading back to the hotel I felt it was necessary to at least try my hand at gambling. Neither Zandra, nor I, had any experience with the rows of brightly lit, loud machines that lined the room. I tentatively read the instructions and stuck a dollar in the machine. Zandra suggested I press the ‘bet max’ button and I promptly lost my whole dollar. Sheepishly she handed me another dollar. This time I was a little more careful, starting with penny bets and then, as my confidence grew, I moved up to a nickle. When I won 2 dollars and 5 cents I cashed out. Quit while you’re ahead. 😉

Anticipating our long ride on America’s loneliest highway the next day we turned in early. It was a birthday I will never forget and hey – I was up 5 cents. 

Whatever you ride – ride safe. 

Helen

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